Global Fashion Summit 2024: Reflections on 15 Years of Progress and the Path Forward
The Global Fashion Summit, held in Copenhagen from 21 May - 23 May, marked a significant milestone as the industry gathered to reflect on 15 years since the Copenhagen Summit (COP15). This year's summit, themed "Unlocking The Next Level," celebrated fashion's evolution and focused on near-term goals for sustainability and resilience. Here, we provide a comprehensive overview of the summit, delving into its history and the key themes discussed by industry leaders.
A Look Back: The History of the Global Fashion Summit
Global Fashion Summit. 15 Years off Activating Impact. Speakers: Julie Gilhart (Fashion Consultant), Eva Kruse (Chief Global Engagement Officer, PANGAIA), Peder Michael Jorgensen (Board of Directors, Global Fashion Agenda). Moderated by: Vanessa Friedman (Chief Fashion Critic, The New York Times)
Fifteen years ago, at COP15, fashion wasn't even on the agenda. Eva Kruse, now Chief Global Engagement Officer at PANGAIA, had to coordinate her own conference on the side. Fast forward to today, and while the conversation continues, the tangible action remains modest. Although collaborations between brands and material innovation companies have emerged, and some brands have started taking their sustainability commitments seriously, the industry still has a long way to go to meet its ambitious targets by 2030.
Vanessa Friedman, during a keynote discussion with Eva Kruse, reflected on this journey. Kruse shared, "I always thought we would become obsolete. At some point, we wouldn’t need to meet. Here we are 15 years in…That’s not what we meant by circularity. It wasn’t the idea that we would talk about the same things 15 years in."
Key Themes from the Global Fashion Summit 2024
Global Fashion Summit. Design with Intent: From Inspiration to Collaboration. Speakers: Halide Alagöz (Chief Product Officer, Ralph Lauren Corporation), Sasha Kelly (Head of Design with Intent, Ralph Lauren Corporation), Naiomi Glasses (Artist in Residence, Polo Ralph Lauren). Moderated by: Elizabeth Segran (Senior Staff Writer, Fast Company Magazine).
1. Do You Care or Is It Just A Job?
One of the pressing themes was the necessity for internal champions within organizations. The summit emphasized that real progress relies on individuals who are genuinely committed to sustainability. It's about cultivating a mindset where fashion professionals are not just fulfilling job roles but are also passionate about creating a positive impact. The stark question posed by Paul Poleman: "How could you feel comfortable stealing from future generations?"
2. Patience and Mindset
The summit highlighted the importance of patience and a transformative mindset. Fashion's intricate supply chain, deeply rooted in the industrial revolution, requires time and collective effort to revolutionize. Priyanka Khanna (Innovation Director - Scaling at Fashion for Good) , underscored the complexity of this transformation, noting that it involves all 60-70,000 suppliers in the market aligning with new goals and regulations.
However, there was a call for urgency. The sentiment of "15 years" sparked an image of inaction, with the industry seemingly waiting for others to take the plunge. Brands were urged to take decisive steps towards sustainability, recognizing that some efforts might fail, but these attempts are crucial for eventual success.
3. Take A Step: Investing in Research and Development
Innovation needs investment. The summit highlighted the glaring underinvestment in research and development, with only 1.5-2.5% of operating income being allocated. Transforming the industry requires significant financial commitment and a willingness to take risks on multiple startups, knowing that not all will succeed. Programs like the Trailblazer Program were celebrated for creating opportunities for innovative companies to showcase their solutions and scale effectively.
4. Education: A Human-Centered Approach
Education emerged as a pivotal theme, emphasizing the need for a human-centered approach to understanding circularity from a young age. The summit called for socially responsible practices and business education to ensure that suppliers and industry players are well-versed in sustainable solutions. It’s also important that businesses lean into social responsibility and create more practices where consumers can “do good”.
The Innovation Forum: A Hub for Sustainable Solutions
The Innovation Forum. OnceMore® is the world's first large-scale process for recycling blended fabrics.
The Innovation Forum, a key feature of the summit, presented a curated community of the world's leading sustainable solutions. It connected these innovators with fashion brands and retailers to drive meaningful transformation. GFA Academy's role in facilitating networking opportunities throughout the year was praised for nurturing new ideas and stimulating the market.
It Starts With Ourselves
The summit concluded with a call to action, emphasizing that the journey towards sustainability begins with individual commitment. Industry leaders were encouraged to lead by example, fostering a culture of accountability and continuous improvement.
Closing Thoughts
The Global Fashion Summit 2024 highlighted the progress made over the past 15 years while acknowledging the significant work still ahead. As the fashion industry continues to grapple with its social, environmental, and financial impacts, the summit served as a reminder that true transformation requires collective effort, investment, and a steadfast commitment to long-term solutions.
