FOR THE CULTURE WITH KARLA COSSIO

In mid-July, the Immersive Kind and EVENNESS hosted a live event from the Immersive Kind Gallery – only it was purely virtual. Having just missed the event, I watched the recording on the Immersive Kind’s YouTube channel. I was in awe at what I saw. People (their avatars) from all over the world joined together (virtually) to talk about virtual fashion and ‘why it’s a thing now’. As the camera panned across the virtual space, I couldn’t help but notice everyone’s unique outfits. One avatar was dressed in classic business attire – a white button-up with black pants and black loafers – and another dressed in a Christmas-themed tuxedo, scattered with illustrations of snowflakes, Rudolph, and Santa Claus complete with a neon pink beard and goggles to match. It was quite the ensemble. 

I had arrived as Karla Cossio was being asked a question by the moderator. The way her avatar was dressed reminded me of Rey from Star Wars – wearing a neutral-toned tunic with thigh-high tights and Tomuon-esque leather boots complete with a long, dark-brown bubble ponytail. The moderator asked, “Karla, what challenges and opportunities do you see [in the industry]?” Her answer was intriguing, as she took the conversation in a direction I wasn’t expecting. “You avatar wears what inspires you – your narrative, your personality, your culture. Who you are…you can transfer it to the digital world.” She continues, “How can we transfer our culture to the digital world? How can we make it more accessible? How can I get the story of a family of traditional Oaxacan weavers, that weave in their traditional loom, into the virtual world so that they have a voice?” 

We had a virtual meeting the following week – no avatars involved. A seasoned actress, Cossio understands the power dynamic between fashion and identity. Having played a multitude of characters and dressing in their respective costumes over a 25-year period, she has an enriched experience with the impact costume design has on “creating and getting into [a] character”. She continues, “It [fashion] has a power - the power of expression and power of expressing your individuality and your personality.” 

Inspired by the convergence of art, history, and fashion since she was a little girl, Cossio always paid attention to how the artists portrayed their characters through their clothing. “[What] they were wearing expressed something – colors, textures – it means something.” She decided to spend her free time learning art history, focusing specifically on the element of dress in one of the most culturally rich cities in Mexico – Oaxaca. 

Immersing herself in the art community, she was inspired by the heritage and tradition that remains alive and well in those who live there, despite the ever-growing presence of technology in clothing production. With all the talk about the Metaverse and NFTs, Cossio felt that a responsibility to make sure that Mexican culture makes its way into the virtual world. Through their art collective, LEXXA, Cossio and her husband work with artists, from painters to traditional textile masters and weavers, to mint their artwork into NFTs. 

Transitioning a traditional artists’ creative process to digital comes with its own set of challenges. For one, you have to get past the skepticism. “Some of them were not trusting. Like, what is this? Can you tell me more? I can't understand it.” On the other hand, some had heard of NFTs and its associated terms but didn’t know how to get started. Karla recalls that once she explained the process to them, “They went right into it. They said, yeah, this is new. This is amazing. Let's go. This is the future.” Artists who later did their own research and gained their own understanding began to echo the same sentiment as their colleagues – “this is the future”. Cossio says, “They said, “You know what? I dove into it, and I read some things, and we got to do this. Let’s go.” 

This illuminates an obstacle that most are failing to discuss – accessibility and transparency. Cossio’s initiative to ensure that traditional artisans find their footing in the virtual realm is an example of the importance of access to information. And not just information from anywhere – it has to be clear, credible, and digestible. Artisans have to have the opportunity to learn about the virtual world and decide whether or not to participate. If that doesn’t happen, we run the risk of artisans from certain cultures partaking in the digital renaissance and leaving others out.

The fashion industry, as it stands today, lacks transparency – an issue that manifests as lack of rights and proper compensation for garment workers. There’s a disconnect between the craftspeople and the community, making problems for them less personal for us even though we purchase clothing they make. “The challenges I see are the faces we don’t see”, says Cossio. In Mexico, it is custom to have the name of the person responsible for its production woven into the fabric before being sold. “Many times [the clothes] have a note that says, ‘This person made your clothes.’ Maria Louisa made what you’re wearing for example.” The addition of this personalized element adds a level of humanity to the process, it makes it personal. 

Transparency leads to inclusion, equity, fair pay and treatment. I asked Cossio – How do we ensure that 3D designers and artists are not subjected to lack of visibility and fair treatment, similar to garment workers in traditional settings? In an industry that doesn’t make it a priority, something has to be done to ensure that history doesn’t repeat itself. Cossio is starting her own physical clothing brand that intends to give visibility and equity to those who were a part of the process. “With my brand, if I design something, I'll try to make sure that person who helped me is seen.” She continues, “Because if it wouldn't be for that person, then I wouldn't be able to launch my brand. We're all a team. We’re all working on the same page.” 

The promise of digital fashion and virtual worlds is inclusivity, accessibility, and equity from ownership of assets, but for who? There’s potential and there’s much to be done in order for these innovations to be everything we’d hope it would be and more. Shaping the culture of the digital world and all of its sectors requires that the opportunity to learn and access the space is given to everyone, yet where there is inclusion there is exclusivity. We must find a way to strike a balance.  Cossio says, “We can’t miss out on those stories.” With a revered tone, she continues, “If I design something or an artist makes their artwork, they will be transferring a story - their personal story, but also the culture of the place they live in, or the colors they see, or the belief system they have, how they see history. All of that is a footprint of culture – personal and global.” 

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